Kashmir for me was best defined when we were looking for Saida. A woman with three sons 'martyred' in the resistance movement and one who had disappeared, we'd assumed with cynical detachment, would be easy to find. Shopkeepers would say, "turn right... it's the fourth house on the left." Another would add, "no, no...that's the one who lost three sons... not four. The one you are looking for lives on the street to your left." In Kashmir, a Saida lives on every street.